THE A-SERIES ROYAL OAK REF. 5402 - By Corrado Mattarelli

Derivatives of the reference:

• 4187 (1979), with gem-setting
• 4276 (1981)
  

Derivatives of the reference with a date:

• 14802 (1992), Jubilee series, introduced the first salmon pink dials as well as hammered « Tuscany blue » iterations
• 15002 (1996)
• 15202 (2000)
• 15128 (2003)
• 15201 (2011)
• 15205 (2015)
• 16202 (2022)
  

Derivatives of the reference with a skeletonized - caliber 2120SQ:

• 14789 (1992), launched for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Jumbo, diamond-set hands, 40 pieces sold between 1993 and 2003
• 14793 (1992), unique piece with a series bezel sold in Singapore for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak
• 14819 (1993), hands not set with diamonds, 21 pieces sold between 1993 and 2003
• 14811 (1992), openworked dial representing an oak in 14k gold. Sold at auction for 800,000 CHF. 22 units produced between 1992 and 1998.

THE STEEL ROYAL OAK REF. 15002 - By Corrado Mattarelli

THE WOMEN'S ROYAL OAK

> 1976 - Ref. 8638, 29mm., self-winding calibre 2062

The first variation derived from the Royal Oak 5402, even before the launch of gem-set precious metal versions, is a women's watch. 

The status of women's watchmaking is often relegated to that of jewelry. The presentation of reference 8638 in the political context of the 1970s, with the emancipation of women's rights, serves as a manifesto. Until then, women's watches at Audemars Piguet were very fine models, with small or even miniature dials, often set with diamonds. However, the Royal Oak 8638 boasts exactly the same design as the Jumbo; it is presented in steel and features the same 8 visible screws on the bezel. Gérald Genta had already disrupted conventions with the creation of a watch with an integrated steel bracelet, designed as a piece of jewelry for men. Indeed, until then, male clients preferred leather straps to metal ones, which were more associated with femininity. It should be noted that Gérald Genta came from a jewelry and goldsmith background, and after graduating in the 1950s, he worked for a time in a bracelet factory, Ponti Gennari.

If the Royal Oak Jumbo already unashamedly embraced its feminine side, the 8638 equally embraced its masculine side. 

Its size was reduced to 29mm. to fit women's wrists, and the movement was replaced by a self-winding calibre 2062.

The Royal Oak for women is said to have been created in 1973 from a dated gouache, probably by Jean-Fred Malan. The first records of the 8638 date back to plans dated July 1974. The project was entrusted by Jacque Louis Audemars to the Italian case manufacturer Fernando Fontana, whose specialty was working with steel, through Audemars Piguet's representative in Italy, Carlo de Marchi. At the time, craftsmen from northern Italy were the suppliers of high-end exterior components for the Swiss watch industry, particularly for Audemars Piguet. The bracelet remains with Gay Frères in Geneva. 

Although the plans were advanced, the design had to adapt to a significant miniaturization, a reduction of 10 mm. The task was entrusted to Jacqueline Dimier, who was in charge of the creation department at Audemars Piguet. The first woman designer hired by the company, she inherited a significant project, marking her career at Audemars Piguet with a flying start. To miniaturize the 5402, the proportions had to be completely reworked to achieve a harmonious aesthetic. An architect's work constrained by technical challenges such as the eight screws passing through the case, which determine the dimensions of the bezel and therefore the entire aesthetic of the watch.

The choice of a movement with a self-winding system was also determined in advance by the manufacture, despite the difficulties caused by a small case. The chosen calibre 2062 influenced Jacqueline Dimier's design, who created a raised case back to maintain a slim case profile. Among the characteristics inherited from the 1972 Royal Oak are the gold oscillating weight, the petite tapisserie T21, and the "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" color. Jacqueline Dimier placed the AP logo at 12 o'clock for the first time, adding a touch of light to the dial darkened by its miniaturization. This stylistic feature would be applied to all variants of the 8638, as well as the last pieces of the 5402, and then all subsequent Royal Oak models, starting with the 4100.

Traditionally, each new Audemars Piguet piece is unveiled at the Basel Fair, but the 6838 was an exception to the rule. Ten numbered pieces, from 00 to 09, were presented three weeks earlier at an exhibition at the jeweler FRED on Rue Royale in Paris. The success was such that the workshops had to cope with a demand that doubled in two years. Its performance, reaching 1,000 pieces produced per year, two years after its release, granted the women's watch a new place in the market. Starting in 1976, the offering of women's watches increased by 55% and represented a quarter of total production, and a third the following year.

Renamed the "Royal Oak II" as the direct heir to the 5402, some pieces of the reference bear this inscription on the back. 

Beyond its significant place in the Royal Oak lineage, the watch questions gender in watchmaking.

From the 1980s, the model was equipped with quartz movements and abandoned the automatic calibre. Like its maternal figure, the gold and two-tone (gold and steel) versions appeared from 1977 onwards. The first white gold version followed a year later. In total, 3,889 pieces were produced, mostly between 1976 and 1980, and sold until the 1990s.

Derived references:

• 8756 (1978) – with gem-setting, produced in yellow gold in 63 examples

> 1986 – Ref. 14470, 30mm., calibre 2130, 2131, and 2150, water-resistant to 50m.

Between 1980 and 1986, about a dozen models were produced with a diameter of 30mm., equipped with quartz movements, extending from the first Royal Oak model for women (refs. 6008, 6013, 6020, 6033, 6035, 6046, 56048, 56120, 66154).

The reference 14470 is the first 30mm Royal Oak to incorporate an automatic movement. The model becomes the central reference in the Royal Oak women's collection. It will be reinterpreted in various materials and dial variations. A total of 2,878 pieces were sold between 1986 and 2003. Another version of the model, renamed 56721, features the quartz calibre 2610. The reference disappeared from the catalogs in the 2000s in favor of models with a larger diameter.

Derivatives of the reference:

• 14587 (1988), with gem-setting
• 14708 (1992), with gem-setting, one piece sold
• 14845 (1993), with gem-setting, 11 pieces sold between 1993 and 1994
• 14847 (1993)
• 14846 (1994), with gem-setting, 7 pieces sold between 1994 and 2001
• 14913 (1995), with gem-setting, unique piece
• 79313 (1995), with gem-setting, distinguished by its 1030 bracelet produced by GFT
• 79320 (1995), with gem-setting, distinguished by its 1030 bracelet produced by GFT, 102 pieces sold between 1995 and 1997
• 14922 (1997), with gem-setting, rainbow, unique piece sold in 1997
• 14949 (1995), with gem-setting, exclusive contract with Luigi Stumpo, Italian jeweler, diamond hands, 125 units sold between 1995 and 1996, derivative version: 14950 distinguished by its diamond bezel
  

> 1993 – Ref. 14794, 30mm., calibre 2003SQ, water-resistant to 20m.

This skeletonized version of the 14470 features a mechanism in 14-carat gold with incredible finesse, harmonizing with the various materials in which it is produced. Available in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, platinum, and a combination of platinum and rose gold. The model is enhanced by hands set with gemstones using a unique process developed by Italian jeweler Luigi Stampo, with whom Audemars Piguet partnered in 1969. 

A total of 154 pieces were produced between 1993 and 2004.

Derivatives of the reference:

• 14815 (1992)
• 14795 (1995)
• 15092 (1999)
• 15073 (1999), with gem-setting, unique piece

THE MEDIUM-SIZED ROYAL OAK

> 1977 - Ref. 4100, 35mm., calibre 2123, water-resistant to 50m.

The third in the lineage, the Royal Oak III, was designed by Jacqueline Dimier. It was introduced to appeal to a male clientele that had not been won over by the imposing width of the 5402. It specifically targeted Italy, America, and Asia. Its diameter was reduced to 35mm., and for the first time on a Royal Oak, the dial featured a central seconds hand.

From its launch, it was produced in steel, yellow gold, and two-tone (yellow gold and steel). Most models were equipped with the calibre 2123, with more recent versions using the calibres 2124 and 2125. Starting in 1982, at least 96 pieces saw their mechanical movement replaced by a quartz movement, calibre 2506. 

In total, 8,400 pieces were produced between 1977 and 1985, sold up until the 2000s.

Derivatives of the reference:

• 4120 (1978) – probably never produced
• 4153 (1978) – with gem-setting bezel, 176 pieces sold between 1978 and 1985, renamed 14153 between 1984 and 1985
• 4275 (1982) – with gem-setting
• 4287 (1982)
• 4331 (1982)

The 4100 was the basis for the reference 14486, launched in 1985, with the same 35mm. diameter and equipped with the calibre 2130 or 2131, water-resistant to 50m. Its significance in the history of the Royal Oak lies in its introduction of a new material: tantalum, a gray-blue transition metal, heavy but ductile, highly resistant to acid corrosion. However, its diameter would remain an exception in the history of medium-sized Royal Oaks, which continued to evolve to 36mm. (notably, the reference 4332 in 1983 or the reference 14790 in 1992). Initially launched in steel, yellow gold, and two-tone (yellow gold and steel), the introduction of the two-tone tantalum and rose gold in 1988 allowed this new component to be incorporated into the Royal Oak lineage.

With its diameter, the 14486 was introduced in the catalog under the unisex category. The reference was not always characterized by the central seconds hand but offered a new range of dials varying in tones and textures of tapestry produced by the manufacturer Stern in Geneva. The reference evolved with the calibre 2150 from 1988-89 (and its variant, the 2151) with the ability to adjust the date without disturbing the hands. This new function led to an evolution of the silicone gasket, whose modified shape allowed for a longer crown tube for greater robustness and better water resistance. 

Produced in 1,932 pieces, mostly sold between 1986 and 1996, and 11 pieces sold between 1997 and 2005.

Derivatives of the reference:

• 14567 (1987), with gem-setting, produced in yellow gold in one piece
• 14575 (1987), with gem-setting, four pieces produced in 4 years, sold in Hong Kong
• 14544 (1988), with gem-setting
• 14674 (1989)

> 1983 – Ref. 4332, 36mm., self-winding calibre 2124 (2125, 2123), water-resistant to 100m.

A major turning point in the evolution of the Royal Oak, the 4332 pioneered a significant era for the medium-sized Royal Oak with its 36mm. diameter. It remained the last size evolution of the model for more than three decades, reinterpreted by over 50 models. Among its most important variants are the references with date 14700, 14790, and 18000; the references with calendar complications, the 5572 Day-Date and its moon phase version 5594, the Dual Time 25730, or the annual calendar 25920, not to mention the numerous jewelry versions.

It wasn't until 2005, with the introduction of reference 15300, that the Royal Oak saw its diameter expand again to 39mm., and in 2012 to 41mm. with reference 15400.

The reference 4332 remains the most modest, with only 895 pieces produced. In 1985, the model was renamed 14332, with an additional 248 new pieces produced. That same year, the yacht UBS Switzerland, sponsored by Audemars Piguet, finished first in the famous Whitbread Round the World Race. Each crew member received a Royal Oak 4332 engraved with "Tour du Monde 85-86" on the case back.

Among the 895 listed pieces, 484 were equipped with calibre 2124, 406 with calibre 2125, and 5 with calibre 2123. 376 pieces were produced in two-tone (steel and yellow gold), 298 in yellow gold, 201 in steel, and 20 pieces in white gold.

Derivative of the reference:

• 14998
• 14700 (1990)
• 14790 (1992)
• 14800 (1992)
• 14702 (1991), calibre 2125, 42 pieces sold
• 14705 (1992), calibre 2125, two pieces produced, one piece sold
• 14701 (1992), with gem-setting, 11 pieces produced

> 1983 – Ref. 5572 (renamed 25572), 36mm., calibre 2124/2810

The first Royal Oak with a complication. While a chronograph might have been the logical first complication to develop for the Royal Oak, given its modern and sporty look, it was a calendar complication that emerged due to demand. Nicknamed the "Owl" by collectors, reference 5572 features two sub-dials centered on either side of the main dial, indicating the days on the left and the date on the right. These sub-dials are proportionally very large relative to the main dial, giving the illusion of an owl with its big, wide-open eyes at night.

With a strong start and 606 pieces delivered by Le Brassus a year before its release date, the number of pieces sold gradually decreased, explained by the release a year later of its moon phase variant, the 5594, which remained in the catalog for over 20 years, an absolute record in Audemars Piguet's history.

In total, 1,770 pieces were sold between 1983 and 1998. The watch, renamed 25570 between 1984 and 1985, was equally divided in production by material: one-third in steel, one-third in yellow gold, and one-third in two-tone (gold and steel). Production in white gold represents less than 1%. In 2009, a new version appeared with a 39mm diameter, the 26330.

The reference was declined in six jewelry versions between 1983 and 1985, produced in fewer than 10 examples each:

• 5581 (1983), renamed 25581 between 1984 and 1985
• 5584 (1983)
• 5658 (1983)
• 25577 (1983), unique piece
• 25595 (1983)
• 25627 (1985)

> 1984 – Ref. 5594 (renamed 25594), 36mm., calibre 2124/2825

A direct descendant of the 5572, developed around the same time but released a year later, this reference features an additional calendar complication with a moon phase aperture at 6 o’clock. Unlike the references that succeeded it in 35 and 36mm. in the catalog, the 25594 remains available for over 20 years (from 1985 to 2006), setting a record for Audemars Piguet, with a variation of 10 dials across all materials. It achieved immediate success, with 333 pieces sold in the first year and 600 in the second. The calibre 2124/2825 was gradually replaced, between 1997 and 2002, by the calibre 2224/2825, which equipped the last approximately 2,000 watches. A total of 6,534 pieces were produced, with over half made in steel, 27% in two-tone (steel and yellow gold), and 24% in yellow gold. Only 19 pieces in white gold were recorded, and a single piece in rose gold was sold in 1997.

Derivatives of the reference:

• 25595 (1984)
• 25627 (1985)
• 25658 (1987), unique piece sold in Switzerland

> 1995 – Ref. 15000, 33mm., calibre 2140, water-resistant to 50m.

The first Royal Oak with a 33mm. diameter and an automatic movement. Presented as an intermediate unisex model, its calibre would later be used in women's versions of the Royal Oak Offshore, references 79290 and 77151. The case is manufactured by the same maker as the 5402, Favre Perret. Its bracelet is crafted by GFT and bears the reference 789, which is also found on 36mm. models such as the 25772 and 14790.

It is the most produced Royal Oak with an automatic movement, with 4,019 pieces sold between 1995 and 2006.

Derivatives of the reference:

• 15050 (1996), sapphire crystal, 166 pieces produced between 1996 and 1997
• 15054 (1999), with gem-setting
• 15059 (1999), with gem-setting
• 15077 (2000)
• 15110 (2001)
• 15055 (1999), with gem-setting, 19 pieces sold in white gold

THE ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR

According to collectors and connoisseurs, two events marked the history of Audemars Piguet: the release of the Royal Oak reference 5402 in 1972 and the calibre 2120/2800 with perpetual calendar. This is one of the oldest complications to appear at Audemars Piguet. Among wristwatches, the reference 5516 is the first to feature a subdial with leap years in 1955. Out of 208 calendar watches produced between 1924 and 1969, only 12 were equipped with a perpetual calendar, highlighting the importance and rarity of this complication.

It was on this basis that the Manufacture decided to direct its watchmakers in the mid-70s to counter the Swatch brand. During the quartz crisis, it focused its strategy on high-value watches rather than large-scale production at low prices. Three watchmakers, Michel Rochat, Wilfred Berney, and Jean-Daniel Golay, worked on the project, resulting in the calibre 2120/2800, the thinnest perpetual calendar movement created up to that point. To achieve a thickness of 3.95mm., the watchmakers had to remove the leap year function from the movement.

Impressed by the project, Georges Golay requested the production of 159 movements even before a model was created. The model was launched in 1978 as reference 5548. The calibre 2120/2800 and its skeletonized variant 2120/2800SQ would equip more than 110 different watch models, including the Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet's archives found a photocopy of a Royal Oak with a perpetual calendar, signed with the initials A.P New York and its director at the time. The idea for the 5554, which originated in the United States, shared with dealers and clients at exhibitions or events organized by AP, is believed to have generated demand.

The calibre 2120/2800 requires a 39mm. diameter, perfectly matching the case of reference 5402, to the extent that the first pieces produced were originally cases intended for reference 5402. Indeed, the watches feature three serial numbers engraved: the large number inside the case, the small number outside the caseback starting with the letter D, and a third, just above. These serial numbers correspond to the 5402 series D and the 5554.

However, a dilemma arises: the calibre 2120/2800 is 0.9mm. thicker than the 2121. How to fit the perpetual calendar movement into a case originally designed for the thinnest movement of the time? To meet this challenge, the watchmakers had to find solutions to gain space without altering the architecture and geometry of the monobloc. To achieve this, the bezel was raised by 0.6mm., and the thickness of the crystal was drastically reduced from 2mm. to 0.9mm., which also required replacing its fixation system (the angle of the crystal's curvature was modified). As for the dial, the tapestry was discarded in favor of a flat base similar to that of reference 5548, manufactured by Stern. It has the same thickness as that of the Jumbo.

Thanks to these methods, reference 5554 gained in case thickness, allowing the calibre 2121/2800 to fit. Considering it is a perpetual calendar movement, the case's thinness is truly remarkable.

Another challenge for the watchmakers with the perpetual calendar movement was the correctors. These rods that pass through the case to change the date, day, and moon phase should not pierce the gasket to maintain the watch's water resistance, nor should they collide with the bezel screws. To address this, the gasket was replaced with a metal gasket, surrounded by two traditional O-rings. Additionally, the diameter of the screws was reduced, and two of them were relegated to decorative roles (one at 10 o'clock to accommodate the corrector and another at 4 o'clock to balance tensions).

The Basel Fair plays a major role in the presentation of prototypes. It serves as an indicator of success, as the first orders are placed there. The 5554, presented on April 5, 1984, as a sports watch, had only one sale for the entire year. At that time, the watch's water resistance was not yet reliable enough to meet the standards under which it was displayed, and feedback from brand agents led to several improvements, particularly concerning the correctors and the crown, a weak point in its water resistance.

Its modest market debut would soon be overshadowed by its brilliant destiny as envisioned by Georges Golay in Latin lands.

Let’s turn now to 1980s Italy. Recall the 1970s when the 39mm. of the 5402 deterred Italian customers. By then, the fashion was "oversize," led by Gianni Agnelli, head of the fashion industry in Italy, and his famous Audemars Piguet pocket watch reference 25555, worn on his wrist above his shirt with a leather strap. The arrival of the Royal Oak 5554 was perfectly timed with the commercial development strategies of the brand’s Italian representatives.

At the time, Audemars Piguet was represented in Italy by a company belonging to SSIH, led from Turin by Carlo de Marchi. In 1983, SSIH was on the brink of bankruptcy, devastated by the quartz crisis. To survive, it partnered with the German group ASUAG, which would be renamed Swatch Group in 1988. For economic reasons, SSIH decided to stop representing Audemars Piguet and focus solely on its own brands such as Omega.

Georges Golay then turned to a Milanese jeweler with a three-generation presence in the market, Alessandro Villa. He was notably responsible for introducing the Gérald Genta brand in Italy and founding Gerald Genta Villa. On January 1, 1985, he became the brand's representative. This year coincided with the introduction of the series 25554ST reserved for Italy, likely negotiated by Villa at the time of his contract signing with Audemars Piguet. The exceptional salesman made Italy a central market for Audemars Piguet and complicated watches. The success was such that the company, taken over by Franco Ziviani in the 1990s, was renamed Audemars Piguet Italia and became a subsidiary of the Audemars Piguet Group.

The long-awaited success of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar arrived but in its variant, reference 25654.

The difficult beginnings of the 25554, marked by returns for lack of water resistance, allowed for the identification of technical flaws and brought significant improvements, particularly the adoption of screw correctors. The technical department was thus able to develop the model ref. 25654, 39mm., calibre 2120/2800, with a thicker case (8.3mm.) to enhance its durability. It was unveiled to the public in 1987. Apart from its thickness, no other differences are visible to the naked eye, which can sometimes make recognition difficult, even for connoisseurs. Moreover, some 25554 models returned to the Manufacture were corrected to 25654.

The reference remained in the catalog, available in 12 models, until it was replaced by its successor, reference 25820, which reintroduced leap years and the evolution of calibre 2121/2802.

The reference 25554 marked the entry of the Royal Oak lineage into the world of high complications. Despite the constraints of its angular and architectural design, it achieved the feat of becoming the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever made. Although technical improvements required a slight increase in case thickness, reference 25654 elevated the Royal Oak to a jewel of haute horology, combining luxury and elegance with modernity and a sporty spirit.

In Summary: 

> 1984 – Ref. 5554 (renamed 25554), 39mm., calibre 2120/2800
The first Royal Oak with a perpetual calendar, soon renamed 25554. Presented at the Basel Fair on April 5, 1984, the first watch was not sold until December. It posed a true technical challenge due to the insertion of a complicated movement into a geometrically complex case, requiring numerous revisions and improvements to enhance its water resistance. Of the first 110 watches delivered, 16 were returned to the Manufacture due to water resistance issues. With a total thickness of 7.5mm., it set itself apart as an ultra-thin wristwatch of its generation. The 270 pieces produced required constant work from watchmakers to fit the 3.95mm. thick calibre 2120/2800 into a case originally designed for the reference 5402, whose movement measures 3.05mm. The growing demand led watchmakers to evolve the reference, offering a thicker case to address water resistance issues. This resulted in reference 25654 with an 8.3mm thickness.

The only derivative of reference 25554:

• 25624 (1985), diamond bezel. The only known model to combine a perpetual calendar with a diamond-set peripheral bezel.
  

> 1986 – Ref. 25636, 39mm., calibre 2120/2800SQ
This reference was born in the skeleton workshop, under the direction of Régis Meylan. At that time, the art of skeletonization was revitalized to counter the quartz crisis and showcase horological craftsmanship. It was in this same workshop that the calibre 2120/2800 was created in 1978, along with the first Royal Oak perpetual calendar. Skeletonizing the calibre 2120/2800 required over a month of work and refinement before fitting it into the 8.8mm. thick case of reference 25636, which, for the first time in the Royal Oak lineage, featured a sapphire case back to admire the movement’s decorations and engravings. The 313 examples sold between 1986 and 1997 were available in a variety of materials, starting with yellow gold upon release, followed by platinum, steel the following year, rose gold in 1991, and from 1994, new combinations: steel and platinum (SP), rose gold and platinum (RP), and the reverse, platinum and rose gold (PR).

Derivatives of the reference:

• 25651 (1986), with gem-setting
• 25659 (1988), with gem-setting
• 25688 (1989)
• 25694 (1990), with gem-setting, unique platinum model
• 25686 (1992), with a sapphire case back but not equipped with an entirely skeletonized movement
• 25775 (1993), with guilloché bezel
  

> 1987 – Ref. 25654, 39mm., calibre 2120/2800
A variation of reference 25554, the 25654 features a more robust and thicker case, with a total height of 8.3mm. Of the 12 models equipped with calibre 2120/2800, reference 25654 represents more than half and is central to the success of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar. It was discontinued in 1996 in favor of reference 25820, which, equipped with calibre 2120/2802, introduced leap years to its dial. A total of 841 pieces were sold between 1987 and 1998. 

Derivatives of the reference:

• 25687 (1989)
• 25773 (1995), with guilloché bezel

THE YELLOW GOLD PERPETUAL CALENDAR ROYAL OAK REF. 25654,  By Corrado Mattarelli

THE ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE

For Audemars Piguet, the 1970s were marked by the success of the Royal Oak. However, as the 1980s began, the watchmaking world faced an unprecedented challenge: the quartz crisis. Having already lost two-thirds of its workforce, the Manufacture decided to focus on its watchmaking expertise and highlight complications through skeletonization. The Royal Oak saw its first variations with complications and open movements, allowing appreciation of the artisans' handwork. At the same time, the Manufacture integrated quartz calibres into its collections. The company navigated the crisis with 11,000 watches produced annually and achieved CHF 60 million in revenue.

After the crisis, a new project would revolutionize the Royal Oak lineage: the Royal Oak Offshore, a name that even precedes the essence of the piece. "Unlike its predecessor, the Royal Oak Offshore does not respond to any market demand," said Martin K. Wehrli, former director of the Audemars Piguet Museum, in a book dedicated to the Royal Oak in 2012, highlighting the entry of the Royal Oak into a new era.

Indeed, Audemars Piguet’s archives have unearthed a 1989 memo addressed to the design department, written by Stephen Urquhart, co-director at the time. It mentions Dierk Wettengel's, the German market manager, insistence on developing a piece for the 1990s based on the "cigarette/offshore" idea. It also suggests checking if the name "offshore" had already been registered. The memo is accompanied by an advertisement cut from a German magazine featuring a cigarette boat. These boats, with their streamlined shape, are designed to enhance engine performance inspired by offshore boats but with a very luxurious and comfortable interior. At the time, motorboat racing was highly popular in the United States and Europe, and Audemars Piguet seized the opportunity to collaborate and represent these speed sports, even having its own team.

To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak, a piece whose name and shape are derived from marine references, Stephen Urquhart initiated the project to modernize the watch. He decided to follow Wettengel's instinct, and the name "offshore," registered before the piece was created, was chosen as an obvious representation for the new piece that would mark the evolution of the Royal Oak lineage.

The project was entrusted to the young Emmanuel Gueit, then 22 years old, who had joined Jacqueline Dimier at Audemars Piguet’s creation. His concept was very simple and stemmed from an observation: women were increasingly wearing men's watches. This reflection might have arisen from his desire to differentiate himself from Jacqueline Dimier, who created the Royal Oak for women. In any case, his concept was to push the limits of masculinity to their peak to offer a Royal Oak exclusively for the male clientele. 

The first gouache sketches presented an already oversized watch (42mm. in diameter and 16mm. in thickness), an imposing visible gasket, and a crown covered in colored rubber. The idea of incorporating a compass into the dial, proposed by Emmanuel Gueit, was soon overshadowed by Jacques Piguet's idea, owner and director of the Frédéric Piguet house, a supplier of movements since the 19th century, to introduce a chronograph. This vision perfectly complemented the Offshore's sporty design and was integrated into the watch. 

However, the project took time to materialize, initially facing resistance from workshops due to an oversized watch contradicting the luxury and refinement of haute horology, and during its development, overcoming various technical challenges related to its water resistance. But the final result, refined to the standards of haute horology, featured extremely sophisticated finishes, with a hand-satinized bracelet by the Gay Frères manufacture, an ultra-modern synthetic material for covering the pushers and crown provided by the Jura-based company Pibor, an automatic calibre 2126/2840 made by LeCoultre & Cie, and a Petite Tapisserie guilloché dial by the Dubois Dépraz workshops. In addition to a 100-meter depth water resistance, the Royal Oak Offshore is also resistant to magnetic fields thanks to a plate inserted into its case.

When the first Royal Oak offshore reference 25721 was presented at the Basel Fair in 1993, it literally caused a scandal. Not only was its size oversized, but its price (CHF 16,600) was twice that of a reference 14790. In an interview, Emmanuel recounted how Gérald Genta reportedly exclaimed at the fair: "You ruined my watch; you are a murderer!" The buzz surrounding the Jumbo was echoed 20 years later by the one nicknamed "The Beast."

Yet, a young audience, predominantly Italian this time, was captivated by the model’s modernity and avant-garde nature. They were the forerunners of its success and paved the way for it.

The first 100 pieces were only engraved with the Royal Oak logo on the back of the case, with no mention of the name "offshore." The goal was to keep the registered name in reserve in case the launch of reference 25721 failed. But fate silenced the critics, and from the 101st piece onwards, the full inscription was engraved on the back. In the three years following its release, the Royal Oak Offshore represented only 1.6% of the watches sold by Audemars Piguet. With 716 pieces sold, it did not achieve the same success as the initial 5402. 

As previously mentioned, pioneering countries such as Italy, followed by Switzerland, the United States, and then Germany, would drive the commercial success of the 25721, notably illustrated in 1997 by Italian skiing champion Alberto Tomba, who proudly displayed the Royal Oak Offshore on his wrist.

But if the reference lasted more than 15 years in the catalog, it was due to the expansion of its collection, this time, in response to market demand. 

After three years with no modifications except for a few gold pieces and a triple-fold clasp, 1996 introduced six new models:

• Reference 25770, a variation of the Royal Oak Offshore with a leather strap, featuring the same calibre
• Reference 79290, the Royal Oak Offshore for women with a reduced diameter of 30mm., and its variation with a leather strap, reference 77151, both with calibre 2140
• Three variations of the Royal Oak Offshore reduced to 38mm. in diameter, all equipped with calibre 2127/2827.
  Featuring the date, day, and month: reference 25807, and its variant, reference 25808 on a leather strap.
  In a limited edition, reference 25852, produced in 19 rose gold pieces and 96 in steel, created to mark the handover from Hong Kong to China. This set the stage for special editions.

The year 1997 also marked the introduction of new complications in the Royal Oak Offshore lineage, with perpetual calendar (reference 25854), time zones (references 25970, 25971, and 25972), and diamond setting (reference 25844).

Emmanuel Gueit enriched the collection with new pop color ranges, confirming its relevance and offering a real breath of modernity to the Royal Oak. By 1997, the milestone of 1,000 pieces sold was finally reached. The year also saw the collaboration with American superstar Arnold Schwarzenegger with the launch of reference 25770SN in a limited series of 500 pieces, named "End of the Day," with the proceeds going to a charity. This series initiated numerous other partnerships that would bring the Royal Oak into popular culture, ranging from sports to cinema, and even into the more controversial worlds of hip hop and pop culture.

The Royal Oak Offshore can definitely be considered a distinct branch of the Royal Oak lineage, thanks to its variations and its entry into popular culture. Its status was cemented in the 2010s, with 14,011 Offshore watches sold, surpassing the Royal Oak (8,081 pieces). A pioneer in the high-dimensional watch industry, the Royal Oak Offshore, like its predecessor, has managed to shake up design codes and make history.

In Summary : 

> 1993 – Ref. 25721, 42mm., calibre 2126/2840, water-resistant to 100m.
Originating from a request by the German market representative and the desire to rejuvenate the Royal Oak to celebrate its 20th anniversary, the first Royal Oak Offshore, nicknamed "The Beast" when it was presented at the Basel Fair in April 1993, caused a scandal. Its size was deemed outrageous, with its imposing gasket protruding from the bezel, designed by Emmanuel Gueit, who aimed to create a watch "So big that no woman would wear it."
Reference 25721 features the calibre 2126/2840, making it the first chronograph movement to enter the Royal Oak family. Water-resistant to 100m., it meets the criteria of a modern and sporty watch. In the first three years after its release, it only attracted a very limited audience, mostly young and Italian, who became the forerunners of its rapid and likely unexpected success. From 1995 onwards, the model was distributed in precious metals, followed the next year by the introduction of the women's model, and new references with leather and soon rubber straps, as well as many limited editions. The success of the Royal Oak Offshore eventually surpassed that of the Royal Oak.

Reference 25721 was available for over 20 years, with a total of 10,896 pieces produced.

Presented in 8 different materials, the production includes a majority of 7,308 pieces in steel, 2,914 pieces in titanium from 1998, 589 pieces in yellow gold, 64 two-tone pieces in gold and steel, one piece in rose gold and steel, 21 pieces in white gold, 10 pieces in platinum and one piece in black steel

The reference was discontinued in favor of its successor, the Royal Oak Offshore, Ref. 26170, calibre 2326/2840.

Derivatives of the reference:

• 25844 (1997): with gem-setting
• 25894 (1997) : with gem-setting
• 25862 (1996): with baguette-cut gemstones bezel

THE STEEL ROYAL OAK OFF SHORE REF. 25721ST.O.1OOOST.01 - By Corrado Mattarelli

> 1996 – Ref. 25770, 42mm., calibre 2126/2840, water-resistant to 100m.
The first Royal Oak on a leather strap, designed by independent designer Jörk Hysek, with the case modified by extending two curved fake lugs. Given that the 25721 was sometimes considered too heavy to wear, the leather strap helped lighten the watch and made it less costly to produce. The design was also used for the women's offshore references with leather straps, 77151 and for the 25808 with a 38mm. diameter.
It was also the reference used for the limited edition of 500 pieces, "End of Days," created in collaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger, and was the first to feature a Kevlar strap. The reference 25770 remained in the catalog from 1996 to 2004, with a total of 3,033 pieces produced. It was succeeded by references 25940 (2001), 26020 (2004), and 26170 (in metal or leather, with the attachment system replaced by lugs).

Derivatives of the reference:

• 25855 (1997): with baguette-cut sapphires bezel, unique model
• 25922 (1999): End of Days, limited series of 500 numbered pieces, created for Arnold Schwarzenegger and his friends. The case back is engraved "END OF DAYS"

> 1996 – Ref. 79290, 30mm., calibre 2140, water-resistant to 100m.
The first Royal Oak Offshore for women, retaining the same characteristics as the original men's version but proportionally three times smaller. It unmistakably recalls reference 8638, the women's version of the Royal Oak 5402. This time, it was Emmanuel Gueit who designed it, despite his comments during the creation of "The Beast." 409 pieces were delivered between 1996 and 2001.

> 1996 – Ref. 77151, 30mm., calibre 2140, water-resistant to 100m.
A counterpart to the 79290 with a leather strap, both watches were presented simultaneously. The colorful versions revitalized the collection from 1997 and contributed to its success. Production was limited to 276 pieces sold between 1996 and 2005, due to competition with women's leather models in the Royal Oak collection equipped with quartz movements (reference 66800).

Derivative of the reference:

• 77199 (2000): calibre 2140, unique piece, with mother-of-pearl dial

> 1996 – Ref. 25808, 38mm., calibre 2127/2827, water-resistant to 100m.
The first Royal Oak Offshore with calendar complications and a leather strap. Two apertures are positioned at 2 and 10 o’clock for the day and month, and a date track encircles the dial. It loses its chronograph, but a sub-dial at 6 o’clock with seconds, designed by Emmanuel Gueit, maintains its sporty look. 680 pieces were sold between 1996 and 2006, including 604 in steel and 76 in yellow gold.

Derivative of the reference:

• 25807 (1996): counterpart to the 25808 with a metal strap, sold in over 1,000 pieces between 1996 and 2006, in versions of steel, yellow gold, gray gold, rose gold, and blackened steel.
• 25852 (1997): Offshore Hong Kong, on July 1, 1997, after a 99-year lease, the British Crown handed over the territories of Hong Kong and Kowloon to China. To celebrate this event, AP launched a limited edition with the case back engraved: "HONG KONG 1st July 1997." The day of the week and month are also in Chinese characters, followed by the city's name. 19 of these timepieces were produced in rose gold and 97 in steel. 115 pieces sold.
• 25887ST (1998): Nagano, Japan, hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics. Audemars Piguet created 98 limited edition pieces, with a total of 96 units sold. Each case bears the signature of multiple skiing champion Alberto Tomba, AP ambassador since 1997 and fan of the Offshore.

CONCLUSION

Since its inception, the Royal Oak has spanned more than half a century, adapting to the evolving trends, fashion, and challenges of each decade. Its greatest strength lies in its ability to evolve while preserving the pure essence of Gérald Genta's original design.

The successive variations, starting with changes in diameter, have highlighted the distinctive characteristics of its design, turning these elements into major strengths and focal points for each new model.

The jewelry spirit of the Royal Oak, with its integrated bracelet, has been elevated in each piece, giving rise to a line of fine jewelry.

To face the quartz crisis, Audemars Piguet relied on horological tradition and artisanal craftsmanship, distancing itself from fleeting trends and elevating its creations to the level of works of art by integrating complications from the 1980s onward, despite the technical constraints of a complex case, and skeletonizing movements like the caliber 2120/2800, introduced in 1986 and requiring over 200 hours of work.

Although the Royal Oak was born from a sporty vision, its water resistance posed a major challenge for watchmakers. 

The manufacture managed to push the technical limits imposed by the geometric shape and dimensions of the model, adapting to evolutions and new complications. True to Gérald Genta's approach, which highlighted the iconic eight screws on the case, the introduction of the Royal Oak Offshore continued this strategy with a prominent and visible gasket between the bezel and the case, as well as around the crown. 

The introduction of the Offshore opened up a new path, reminiscent of the boldness of the Jumbo when it debuted at the Basel Fair: the oversized case created a similar shockwave, once again proving the brand's ingenuity.

Even the subtlest design variations, such as enlarging the tapisserie pattern or evolving the caliber, have given each model its unique character.

It was this bold bet that Georges Golay succeeded in making by integrating the Royal Oak into Audemars Piguet's production, which until then had been limited to very small series. From the outset, each uniquely numbered case added that touch of exclusivity, capturing the interest of a high-end clientele.

The latest challenge for the manufacture was to embrace globalization, integrating the Royal Oak into popular culture through collaborations in the artistic world. Today, the Royal Oak has become a symbol of social success, elegance, and luxury. Both a daily watch, fashion accessory, collector's item, and piece of history, the Royal Oak fully deserves its name of "royal oak," firmly rooted in watchmaking culture and irremovable from the throne.

Author: Fiona Galati