Rolex Ref. 6238

« Le luxe, c’est la rareté, la créativité, l’élégance. » Pierre Cardin

Let's take a brief moment to focus on the reference model 6238, named the 'pre-Daytona.'

What drives collectors mad is the multiplicity of models produced under the same reference. They embark on a quest for knowledge about all the parts with divergent characteristics, to catalog, classify, and study them. The reference 6238 has enough to drive them crazy: an ambiguous name, breathtaking beauty, and a great variety of dials. We'll hear from one of them, Teddy Dewitte (Instagram: watches2.8 )collector, expert and Pre-Daytona enthusiast.

If there is a debate today about the correct attribution of the pre-Daytona name, it is to underline the importance of the model. The "Pre-Daytona" is an essential model in the history of the Cosmograph design at Rolex. Indeed, the 6239, the first reference bearing the name Daytona, comes from a lineage of chronographs whose study deserves all our interest, given the iconic status it achieved in the 20th century. The Daytona crossed the boundaries of the confined world of connoisseurs and collectors to earn its place in popular culture.

Literature and experts seem to agree on the specific characteristics of the term "Pre-Daytona": a wristwatch chronograph, 36mm in diameter, released before the Daytona, with round pushers, an Oyster case, comprising three sub-dials, with a reference starting with "6000". This allows us to include:

  • 6034,
  • 6234,
  • and 6238.

The controversy begins over which model deserves the name "Pre-Daytona." For the expert Stefano Mazziarol, one of the greatest experts on the Daytona, there is no doubt: this name can only be attributed to the reference 6238. But opinions differ. Starting with Aurel Bac, senior consultant at Phillips, who believes that the denomination "Pre-Daytona" is not even justified since the two references were produced in parallel, two years apart, and presented side by side in the Rolex catalog for 4 years (the reference 6238, produced in 1961-62, was introduced in the catalog until 1967-68, while the 6239 entered from 1963). Added to this are their many similarities, which would suggest that they are two sister pieces.

In this period catalog, published in the book “Rolex Daytona from Birth to Myth. A Journey Between Technique and Style,” ref. 6238 (selected in red) can be seen along with the next three Daytona references, from the article ROLEX 6238 : THE PRE-DAYTONA THAT INSPIRED THE MYTH, on Italian watch spotter

However, since every nickname is not given randomly, differences as significant as the dial and bezel justify its prior place to the Daytona.

Let's take a step back and start the analysis with the first reference in the series: the 6034. This is a waterproof chronograph produced in the 1950s. Like the Tasti Tondi, reference 1463 at Patek Philippe from the 1940s, the 6034 is not the first waterproof chronograph produced at Rolex, as it is the reference 3535 launched in 1939. Produced in gold or steel, it features a beautiful variety of monochrome silver or, more rarely, black dials. Among its main characteristics are leaf hands, two tachymetric and telemetric scales that encircle the dial, and three sub-dials. The telemeter can also be replaced by a pulsometer. It is common to see the two scales in two colors, one red and the other blue on a silver dial. At 6 o'clock, you will only find the inscription "SWISS" since the "T SWISS T" appeared only from the 1960s to signify the presence of Tritium.

Its very limited production makes it a highly sought-after and collectible piece. In addition to its two scales, you will find on some pieces an overlap of the sub-dials on the telemeter, giving it a "charming" look. Auction prices for silver-dialed pieces do not exceed 60,000 CHF. As for black dials, their status as collector's items is confirmed by their price exceeding 150,000 CHF. A significant score for a rose gold 6034 that exceeded 450,000 CHF at a Phillips auction in May 2022.

Rolex, Ref. 6034, pink gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, with the courtesy of Phillips

Fun fact, the same watch was sold for 600,000 CHF in 2020, highlighting its importance in the watch market. 

Let's move on to the 6234. The reference was introduced in 1955 and ended in 1961. According to Teddy Dewitte's data, there are 2,250 steel examples, 36 in 18-carat yellow gold, and 108 in 14-carat yellow gold. The introduction of 14 carats is explained by the importation of pieces into the American territory, subject to high taxes on 18 carats. Among its characteristics, we find the same as the 6034, except for some sub-dials whose diameter has been drastically reduced. A piece pointed out by Teddy Dewitte, showing the "T Swiss T" at 6 o'clock, while the piece contains no Tritium. This difference is confirmed according to him on pieces destined for the Japanese market, where radium had a bad reputation after the atomic bombings on Hiroshima in 1945.

A 'T Swiss T' dial with no lume, courtesy of Teddy Dewitte, from the article IS THE ROLEX PRE-DAYTONA A FORGOTTEN CLASSIC? On a collected Man

In terms of prices, the scores are equivalent to the reference 6034 for steel pieces. There is a surge in prices for 14-carat or 18-carat gold pieces due to their rarity, with, for example, an 18-carat yellow gold piece extremely well-preserved in a condition that earned it the score of 554,400 CHF at a Phillips auction in 2020.

Rolex, Ref. 6234, yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with luminous multi-scale dial, with the courtesy of Phillips

The reference 6238 evolves the dial of the 6234. It is called a transitional model because, during its production, its design gradually moves away from the 6234 towards that of the 6239. Still according to Teddy Dewitte, production amounts to 3,590 pieces in steel, 150 in 18-carat yellow gold, and 225 in 14-carat yellow gold. It still presents the same duality between a silver dial and a black dial, to which is added a grey dial, slightly darker than the silver, making it a rare and extremely collectible piece.

The rarest dials, beyond the grey dial, remain the black dials, that are found in matte or glossy versions. Edmond Saran, author of the online magazine "Le Monde d'Edmond," has documented more than 14 varieties of different dials, of which you will find the exhaustive list here,  https://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-rolex-6238-pre-daytona/, documented by photos. 

As far as sales results are concerned, the most sought-after pieces are inevitably those in gold, due to their limited production. The records at Phillips are attributed to two pieces with 14k gold cases and glossy black dials, one sold in 2017 for 466,000CHF and the second in 2019 for HK$4,110,000, equivalent to a slightly higher price than that of 2017.

Rolex, Ref. 6238, 14k yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with black “glossy” dial and bracelet, with the courtesy of Phillips

Among the greatest collectible pieces, there are also the double signatures. The reference 6238 bore two: that of the very famous dealer Tiffany and that of the FAP (Fuerza Aerea del Peru), engraved on the case back. 

A little aside: Created in 1929, the FAP was the main air element of the Peruvian military forces. Omega was their first supplier until 1962, then Rolex took over. Rolex began supplying chronographs ranging from reference 6238 to 6263, before also providing them with Submariner date ref. 1680, GMT-Master ref. 1675, and Turn-O-Graph ref. 1625. The collaboration is believed to have taken place thanks to the close friendship between the Rolex dealer in Lima and the late Heineger, head of Rolex South America (father of Patrick Heineger, general manager of Rolex SA). It is believed that between 700 and 800 Rolex pieces were delivered to the FAP, making them extremely rare models.

According to one of the world's greatest experts on the Rolex Daytona, Stefano Mazzariol, the evolution of the 6238 is divided into three series, the first (also called pre-series) starting from the number 800,000. The second, the rarest, starts at 950,000 and ends on the third at the number 1,000,000. 

The pre-series inherits the Rolex signature "Oyster Chronograph" and "antimagnetic" on the sub-dial at 6 o'clock. It has the same manual movement as its predecessors, the 72B Valjoux, which evolves into the caliber 722 on the second series, based on the 72B, also carried by its successors the Daytonas. It gradually loses the "Dagger" hands and the telemeter scale, although, as we will see later; a rare model appears with the pulsometer scale. The appearance of the "T Swiss T" also begins with the period. The particularity of the second series is its two tones dial. The baton hands, the same as for the 6239 to the 6263, definitively characterize the reference. 

But another "file" opens with the reference 6238: it is the size of the minute hands. With the switch to baton hands, the 6238 features a minute hand that does not exceed the tachymeter scale, unlike the 6239 (supposedly for better readability). But it gets complicated when minute hands the size of the 6239 are found on the 6238. The question then arises whether the hands were changed during a revision to more recent ones or whether they came out of the manufacture with these (this case would be simply explained by the overlap of the production years of the two references). We will not have the answer. The only observation we can make is whether there is a significant difference among the auction results. When we compare two steel models of the third series with a black dial, sold a year apart, the first with the shorter hands achieves 131,250 CHF while the second with the longer hands achieves, a year later, a score of 156,250 CHF. 

The auction results do not seem to attribute significant importance to the originality (or not) of the shorter hands.

Finally, the last series is the one closest to the 6239. As the experts remind us, the two watches were simultaneously in the catalog for nearly 4 years, which explains the many controversies about it. The real act that revolutionized the evolution of the 6238 design towards the Cosmograph is the externalization of its tachymeter scale on the bezel (well after the release of the Speedmaster, in 1957). Beyond better robustness, dials with scales were much more expensive to produce. The sub-dials, with more modern typography, are of contrasting colors on the Daytona, whose hands widen on the lower and right counters compared to the 6238. These two stylistic evolutions are, of course, justified for better readability intended for car racers. But this proximity to the Daytona has brought out among the 6238 some very rare pieces, such as this model called "Solo," which is also found with the reference 6240, because of its exclusively Rolex-signed dial; or a 6238 case whose dial displays the inscription Daytona. How to qualify these pieces?

We have reached a stage where the boundary between 6238 and 6239 has become so thin that it is impossible to designate certain pieces as "Daytona" or "Pre-Daytona." This outcome reflects an aesthetic and conscious evolution of the Cosmograph. The auction results mentioned earlier testify to the importance of each piece in its history and also to their individual importance as collector's items. Eyes may more easily turn to the 6238 due to its range of dials, its double signatures, or its appearance in the James Bond film "On Her Majesty’s Secret Service" in 1969 on George Lazenby's wrist.

But one thing remains certain: wearing a 6238, a 6234 or a 6034 can only demonstrate a certain finesse and elegance that will distinguish you among connoisseurs.

A scene from the 007 movie “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”, from the article ROLEX 6238 : THE PRE-DAYTONA THAT INSPIRED THE MYTH, on Italian watch spotter 

Interwiew with Teddy Dewitte

We had the pleasure of speaking with Teddy Dewitte (Instagram: watches2.8 ), a collector, dealer, and Pre-Daytona enthusiast. 

We would like to express our deep gratitude to him for taking the time to answer our questions and share his valuable knowledge.

1. Why is reference 6238 considered one of the most important chronographs in the world, in comparison to its predecessors and successors?

The 6238 already has many of the attributes of the legendary DAYTONA (initially named "Le Mans"). It exudes a modernity that was not previously pronounced in ROLEX chronographs. This break had already begun with reference 6234, but the 6238 is more refined in terms of simplicity.

2. Is it reserved only for an elite group of connoisseurs?

I don't think so, especially because its price is often lower than that of DAYTONAs from the 1963-1988 period. However, the profile of collectors interested in pre-Daytona is a bit more "geeky" as they are a world unto themselves. I would love to see a thematic auction on pre-Daytona watches.

3. What is your method for tracing the history of watches?

I first look at the serial number. Then, I examine the components to verify they align with the period. Finally, I inspect the dial to see if its configuration is consistent with the period. I also examine the details of the dial to assess its condition and originality.

4. Between the models 6024, 6234, and 6238, which do you prefer and why?

I have a preference for the 6234 due to ROLEX's hesitation in the design of its dials, which resulted in great diversity. It's somewhat similar to the 1954/55 period for Submariner dials.

5. Is it just a question of aesthetics or is there a particular history behind these models?

It is essentially a question of aesthetics. The Valjoux movement has evolved very little.

6. How many different variations have you identified for reference 6238?

Silver and gun metal (1st and 2nd generation for each), big logo/dagger index, galvanic black, gilt black, solo, underline, snail, opaline white (14k gold version). There is probably a "doctor dial" and of course the replacement dials.

7. Do you consider the 6238 to be a pre-Daytona, or do you think the pre-Daytona also includes references 6034 and 6234?

In my opinion, 6034, 6234, and 6238 are all pre-Daytona.

8. Expert Stefano Mazzariol has categorized the 6238 reference into three series. Can you explain how to easily recognize the three series to a novice?

You just need to look at the calligraphy of "ROLEX," particularly the R to identify them. The R has a smaller loop on the 1st generation. On the 2nd generation, apart from the R's wider loop, the minute track slightly extends beyond the rehaut/frame. Then there are the replacement dials that often have different writings.

9. How do you explain the existence of a 6238 model with the "Daytona" inscription on the dial with a shorter minute hand than the 6239?

With ROLEX, many things are possible because the manufacture in the 50s, 60s, and 70s was not as strict as the powerhouse it has become. Therefore, we have to rely on a body of converging information. The 6238 coexisted with the 6239 for four years until 1967. Therefore, such a 6238 would need to have a late serial number from 1965, 1966, or 1967 to show the word DAYTONA on the dial. It is also possible that this dial comes from a 6239 and was placed in a 6238.

1. Pourquoi la référence 6238 est-elle considérée comme l’un des chronographes les plus importants au monde, en comparaison avec ses prédécesseurs et successeurs ? 

La 6238 a déjà beaucoup des attributs de la légendaire DAYTONA (initialement baptisée « Le Mans »). Elle dégage une modernité qui n’était pas prononcée jusqu’alors chez les chronographes ROLEX. Cette rupture avait déjà commencé avec la référence 6234 mais la 6238 est plus aboutie en terme d’épure. 

2. Est-elle réservé à une élite de connaisseurs uniquement ?

Je ne pense pas, notamment grâce à son prix qui est souvent inférieur aux DAYTONA de la période 1963-1988. En revanche, le profil de collectionneur qui s’intéressent aux pré-daytona est un peu plus « geek » car elles sont un monde en soit. J’adorerai voir une venté thématique sur les pre-daytona. 

3. Quelle est votre méthode pour retracer l'historique des montres ? 

Je regarde d'abord le numéro de série. Ensuite je regarde les composantes afin de vérifier qu'ils sont en ligne avec la période. Enfin je regarde le cadran pour également comparer si sa configuration est logique avec la période. Enfin je regarde les details du cadran pour apprécier son état et son originalité.

4. Entre les modèles 6024, 6234 et 6238 lequel préférez-vous et pourquoi ? 

J’ai une préférence pour les 6234 grâce à l’hésitation de ROLEX sur le design de ses cadrans qui est source d’une grande diversité. C’est un peu la même chose pour la période 1954/55 pour les cadrans de Submariners.

5. Est-ce juste une question d'esthétique ou y a-t-il une histoire particulière derrière ces modèles ? 

C’est essentiellement une question d’esthétique. Le valjoux n’a que peu évolué.

6. Combien de variations différentes avez-vous recensées pour la référence 6238 ? 

Silver et gun metal (1er et 2e génération pour chaque), big logo/dagger index, galvanic black, gilt black, solo, underline, escargot, blanc opalin (version OR 14k). Il y a probablement un « doctor dial » et bien sur les cadrans de remplacement.

7. Faites-vous partie des experts qui considèrent la 6238 comme une pré-Daytona, ou pensez-vous que la pré-Daytona inclut également les références 6034 et 6234 ?

6034/6234/6238 sont toutes des pre-daytona selon moi. 

8. L’expert Stefano Mazzariol a catégorisé la référence 6238 en trois séries. Pouvez-vous expliquer comment reconnaître aisément les trois séries à un novice ? 

Il suffit de regarder la calligraphie du « ROLEX », notamment le R pour s’y retrouver. Il a une boucle plus petite sur la 1er génération. Sur la 2e génération, hormis la boucle du R qui est plus large, le minute track dépasse légèrement du rehaut/cadre. Ensuite il y a les cadrans de remplacement qui ont souvent des écritures différentes.  

9. Comment expliquez-vous l'existence d'un modèle de 6238 avec l'inscription "Daytona" sur le cadran avec une aiguille des minutes plus courte que sur la 6239 ?

Avec ROLEX, pas mal de choses sont possibles car la manufacture des années 50/60/70s n’était pas du tout aussi stricte que la powerhouse qu’elle est devenue. Nous sommes donc contraints de nous en remettre à des faisceaux concordant d’informations. La 6238 a coexisté avec la 6239 pendant 4 ans jusqu’en 1967. Il faudrait donc qu’une telle 6238 possède un numéro de série tardif de 1965, 1966 ou 1967 afin de voir le mot DAYTONA sur le cadran. Il est également possible que ce cadran provienne d’une 6239 et placé dans une 6238.

Author: Fiona Galati